Born in the 19th century, in no other country is the potato omelette made. The winner of the last two national competitions is in Betanzos (A Coruña): Alberto García Ponte. It makes them little curds, with eggs of one euro each and without onion.
Ferran Adriait tastes like his mother and the days of cook in the military inCartagena(then, you know, he ended up deconstructing it); to the brothersrockIt was the first thing they were allowed to do at the kids’ house when they played at being cooks;Aduriz, so analytical, he noticed at 13proteinof the egg and in that wonderful golden circular cake that theGourmet Néstor Lujándefined as “the ace of golds of Spanish cuisine”. Cold, hot, on a skewer, in a morning tapa, with or without onion, juicy or compacted, on an open-air excursion or in a dessert agape, theomelette-with the permission of thePaellaand theIberian pork ham– illuminates us, shines as our most universal dish.
García Ponte, with a skewer of his omelette., Betanzos-style. After passing through the Basque Culinary Center, he analyzed the best Galician tortillas until he came up with his recipe.
Historians assure that it was invented during thefirst carlist war, when the generalTomás de ZumalacárreguiHe entered a Navarra inn, rickety with hunger, and they made him an emergency drive with eggs and cooked potatoes. Others place their origin inVillanueva de la Serena(Badajoz) a few decades earlier. More than two centuries later its production has been refined, always under parameters of purity and simplicity. From time to time it is about looking for the most sublime in the country, the one that at least provokes consensus thanks to supreme ingredients, wise execution and a flavor that remains on the brain shelf of the unforgettable. And this time the wisegourmandthey found the most sublime ofSpainwhere if not inBetanzos(A Coruña), cradle of that omelette without too much rennet, splendid, shining and aromatic, round as a tambourine and warm as the July sun. But above all, “slimy or mellow”, to say of his parishioners.
TOAlberto García Ponte, a pro betanceiro (December 20, 1973), was pleased to be the winner of the richest tortilla in the country for this 2018. He took theContest for the Best Spanish Omelette, which was held in the framework of theInternational Potato Forum, inTenerife, last October. This contest is heir to the Spanish Championship that until 2011 it convened, within the framework of the congressThe Best of Gastronomy(organized by thegourmand Rafael García Santos), to the best artists of the modality. “First, the best tortillas appeared in the guides that I prepared, and then their chefs presented themselves to the competition the following year. The problem today is that there is no renovation, young chefs who incorporate it into their menu. Tell me, what cook? who starts and wants to stand out, is going to be making 40 tortillas a day, a Chinese job. The restaurants or taverns in which this dish is a specialty still do extremely well.Spainlasted for thirteen editions, the first was in theKursaal de San Sebastiánin 1999 and we finished in 2011, “saysGarcía Santos.
It so happens thatAlbertoand hisO’PoteThey won that last edition, that of 2011, so the Galician could be called two-time champion of this national dish. No one with so many laurels. In the championshipAlbertoHe tried to apply all his technique, and that without being able to count on his magical fryers. He assures that in the end it was crucial to test the mixture before introducing it into the pan. That tasting left him satisfied, confident in doing a good role. Bingo. The jury prioritized and valued its tastyness and the creamy personality of its town in A Coruña, which many Spaniards still remember more for being the birthplace ofPaco Buyo, mythical goalkeeper ofReal Madridend of the century.
Ingredients of the Spanish potato toritilla.
Never before in the kitchen has so much pleasure been made with such meager raw materials and with such simple mixing and execution. And in a narrow street ofBetanzos, paradoxically called theProgress Journey, the omelette returns to its purest and most basic root. Canteens and taverns (Casa Miranda, mainly O’Pote), side by side with dark stone, compete to provide the creamiest and most distinctive. The town is already world famous for its round and honeyed creations. “They are few ingredients, but with which you can apply different techniques in each house, and in each case, with tasty, different results. This is what the potato omelette has. Here atBetanzoswe do not use the onion, which in allSpainyes it is used. It has no connotation to use it or not: the onion also provides its things. Since the omelette here is so juicy, we think that it is better not to take it. I, who was trying tortillas all over theCantabrianI think that the sweet omelette belongs to the whole north. What happens is that it is juicier inCoruñaandBetanzos. According to you travel to the south they are chubby, with rather well-poached potatoes, and a lot more curd, although inMadridlike that ofBetanzos, It is true. Then ours also arouses love and hatred, because it is a risky omelette. Today, this risk, like raw cooking, is usually very successful ingastronomy. The omelette that we make here is giving the town a lot of popularity “, analyzesGarcía Ponte. “The best omelette in history is still that ofThe delicacy, where the best ofLa Coruñato eat it.Amancio Ortega,Lendoiro… Then he started charging 20 euros for each one. Those who have come closest to it have beenO’Poteand that of Las Cinco Puertas, inPontevedra“thirdGarcía Santos.
Frying pan shape
The worldwide success of the Spanish omelette may have to do with its indigenous singularity, as inimitable as theSpain is different. No other country, no matter how many emigrants we have sent abroad for decades, dares to replicate it. It is impossible to determine how many will be racked per day in homes and in the 277,539 bars and restaurants that theStatistics National Instituterefers that there is inSpain. Just for approximation, it can be said that 254 eggs are consumed here per person per year (compared to 218 on average in theEU) and 30.19 kilos of potato. And that the sales of precooked omelette rise, up to 9% between 2016 and 2017, according to the consultantAlimarket. Almost 15,000 tons were dispatched in 2015. Marketed in different formats between 200 and 900 grams, often 500 or 600 grams, it is not unreasonable to think that more than 25 million of these refrigerated tortillas are shipped each year.
It is called Spanish for the reasons that the chef usesTeodoro Bardajíin The kitchen of them, of 1935: “It is generalized custom inSpainto call the tortillas folded in the shape of a submarine French, and Spanish those made with the same shape as the frying pan, that is, in the shape of a cake. Long round tortillas are made in all countries of the world. The Spanish denomination can not be for its figure but for its components. “
The potato omelette, round like a cake and shaped like a frying pan, is an icon of Spanish gastronomy worldwide.
Renowned chefs influence his peculiarity. “It is the icon of the singularity of theSpanish Cuisine. All countries have eggs and potatoes, and none make it. We are so complex that we Spaniards have also turned it around, in a show of exhibitionism. Not inArgentinathey eat it, no matter how many Galicians there are. We have never seenManolito, ofMafalda, eat one. In no country do they put eggs and potatoes together “, confirmsSacha Hormaechea, author, from thatapothecaryand Madrid figure that bears his name, of the famouslazy potato, of course, it hides Galician reminiscences. “Betanzosit is the omelette of my memory; knowing that you can always do better, it is the best of all. It is like life; That any past time was better is a lie, because you hope that tomorrow there will be another one of a fucking omelette waiting for you. There is a part of thiscoruña omelettein my omelette it wanders, although you don’t have to beat the egg so much with mine. I created it because the architect came to the restaurantRafael Moneoand I wanted a scramble ofperretxikoslike the one his grandmother made him. So I cooked it only on one side, not on the other, which was the closest thing to that gastronomic memory, “he adds.Sacha.
In case ofGarcía Ponteit is also full of honeyed anecdotes. In 2010 I didn’t even know how to make a fried egg. He had premises inSada(A Coruña) between 1999 and 2006, but always as owner or waiter, not as a cook. He went toPontedeume, toSchool of Hospitality, to learn the middle cycle of cooking. Then he also put elbows on theBasque Culinary Center in San Sebastián. “I grabbed this place in 2010 and I said to myself: ‘Either you start cooking or any chef who comes will send more than you’. I learned, and tried hundreds of tortillas, among them the best, such as those at La Casilla, Casa Miranda[Betanzos]and that of José Manuel Gómez Crespo, Crispi, from El Manjar de La Coruña, a historical. I took everyone’s notes and added common sense to them. I’m not saying that the best one is mine, but that, like the eggs I make it with, they are unique and different, “he points out.
The eggs he refers to are the most expensive ofSpain: one euro a unit, which leave the pens ofCeltic Gaul(Vilariño, 30 kilometers from Santiago de Compostela). A huge yolk, bright and without orange or reddish tones, very dense, without a whit of water in its clear and with a deep flavor. With this super egg try to makeGarcía Pontethe supersort. Because the Galician thinks he is “in the process of trying to make an omelette, let’s saygourmet. That yolk, with the privileged diet that chickens have had, makes it not so liquid, but much more creamy than any. I’m also trying to havehomogeneous potatoesall year long, a utopia. Sometimes we usesour potato(Zone ofCoristan, Carvalho, Betanzos…) because the Galician fries well. I like that some leave the fryer more golden, others less, because it will give different textures in the mouth, “he adds. In addition to sour and kennebec, the Roosvelt, charlotte, buffet and B-15 varieties are ideal.
The eggs used by Alberto García used to make his omelette. Each egg is worth 1 euro.
Basques, Navarrese and Galicians have become aces of this golden egg and potato tart, and the Catalans, in addition to planning itAdriàThey are usually the most daring.Truites, a restaurant ofBarcelonatriumphs today with a revolutionary omelette that harmonizes egg, crumbled croissants and different fillings.
Their co-religionists say that there is one for each moment of the day and to deny that there is another better than yours is completely absurd. That if you go to any Spanish airport and the tortilla skewer at the bar is decent, something is better in our country. “The fault for the bad tortillas is not with the person who makes them, but with us, for asking for them, knowing that in all certainty, and despite our unfounded desire, we would be disappointed. We always have the vain hope that we like them. All ” Word ofSacha Hormaechea, kitchens and illustrated tortilla maker who always tries that the diner does not take anything for granted and turns the tortilla, whether or not it is a championship.
The best in Spain
It is an eternal discussion, but here is our selection: the mapFSof the omelette inSpain, elaborated with the help ofRafael García Santos, gastronomic critic and organizer between 1999 and 2011 of the national specialty championship.
1. The house with the five doors: Avda. De Santa María, 8. Pontevedra. Price: 8.5 euros the omelette. Made byBibiana Cardona.
2. The box:Avda. De Castilla, 90. Betanzos (A Coruña). Price. 14.50 euros the omelette. Made by:Angelita Fernández.
3. Miranda House:Travesía de Progreso, 5. Betanzos (A Coruña). Price: 1 euro the skewer; 14 euros an omelette. Made by:Josefa Miranda.
4. Mesón O’bo:Menéndez Pelayo, 18. A Coruña. Price: 15 euros an omelette. Made by:Dolores Romay.
5. Mesón O’pote:Travesía de Progreso, 9. Betanzos (A Coruña). Price: 12 euros an omelette. Made by:Alberto García Ponte.
6. Cañadío: Gómez Oreña, 15. Santander. Price: 2.70 euros the skewer. Made by:Paco Quirós.
7. La Fuente Bar:Our Lady, 8. Castro Urdiales. Price: 1.20 euros the skewer. Made by:Milagros Quintana.
8. Zissou:Ataúlfo Argenta, 35. Santander. Price: 1.70 euros the skewer. Made by:Jorge Blnco and Ander San Martín.
9. Bedua Restaurant: Bedua Disseminated Barreiatua, 1. Zestoa (Guipúzcoa). Price: 5 euros the ration. Made by:Isabel Andia.
10. Cafeteria of the Ensanche:Henao, 12. Bilbao. Price: 17 euros an omelette. Made by.Begoña Pérez Azkona.
11. Look at Itziar:Atxuri, 17. Bilbao. Price: 1.50 euros the skewer. Made by:Iñaki Bustamante.
12. Bar Néstor:Arrandegi, 11. San Sebastián. Price: 2.20 euros the skewer. Made by:Nestor Morais.
13. Sagartoki:El Prado, 18. Vitoria. Price: 2.30 euros the skewer. Made by:Senén González.
14. Txiki Bar:Sancho el Sabio, 14. Vitoria. Price: 11 euros an omelette. Made by:Marta Bustos.
15. TxunTxurro:Plaza de Pío XII, 5. Irún (Guipúzcoa). Price: 3 euros the ration. Made by:Juan José Otero.
16. Kasino:Plaza Zaharra, 23. Lesaka. Price: 10 euros an omelette. Made by:Josefina Sagardia.
17. Bar La Navarra:Amaya, 10. Pamplona. Price: 2 euros the skewer. Made by:Carlos Salinas.
18. Asador El Tahiti:Laurel, 20. Logroño. Price: 15 euros an omelette. Made by:Irene Ibáñez.
19. Arume:Bottle, 11. Barcelona. Price: 9 euros an omelette. Made by:Manuel Núñez.
20. Electricity Bar:. Sant Carles, 15. Barcelona. Price: 4.50 euros the skewer. Made by:Pilar Casanova.
21. Coral Restaurant:Nicaragua, 23. Barcelona. Price: 3.80 euros the skewer. Made by:Andrés Carracedo.
22. Cal Pep:Pza. Les Olles, 8. Barcelona. Price: 9.70 euros an omelette. Made by:Ricardo Rasero.
23. House Peru:Sant Antoni, 4. Baguergue (Lleida). Price: 18 euros an omelette. Made by:Angela Aunós.
24. Les truites:Arimon, 22. Barcelona. Price: from 17 euros the omelette. Made by:Joan Antoni Miró.
Castilla y León
25. The cave:Conde de Vallellano, 6. Alar del Rey (Palencia). Price: 2 euros the skewer. Made by:Miriam Mesones.
26. The Oak:Casañé, 2. Palencia. Price: 14.90 euros the omelette. Made by:Ciri González
27. Mesón Patrio Mío:Pº Zorrilla, 199. Valladolid. Price: 6 euros for the individual omelette. Made by:Cesi Cabello.
28. La Ardosa Winery:Colón, 13. Madrid. Price: 3 euros the skewer. Made by:Ivory Conception.
29. Taberna Pedraza:Ibiza, 38. Madrid. Price: 14 euros an omelette. Made by:Carmen Carro.
30. Támara Casa Lorenzo:Máiquez, 48. Madrid. Price: 16 euros two-portion omelette. Made by:Lorenzo García.
31. Bar Juan José:Villa Mundaka, 1. Huelva. Price: 2 euros the skewer.Made by:Maria Corrales.
The most expensive omelette in the world
TOMario SandovalIt has the honor of executing, in May 2015, the most expensive potato omelette in the world. It cost a whopping 837 euros, which conveniently sliced into four portions yielded a price of 209, 25 euros each skewer. The chef from Madrid chose the most select potato variety in the world, thebonnotte, from thenoirmourtier island(France); aEVOO oilSpanish, of the farga variety of ancient olive trees with a low production from the Maestrazgo area of Castellón; free-range Iberian chicken eggs with a special diet; organic white onion and fleur de sel Añana alavesa. Everything was based on a good cause, since the amount of the omelette was donatedNGO Raíces Foundation, with which the cook collaborates assiduously.
The Spanish omelette, golden and round like a cake.